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A Little TIC

Dorothy Gale’s hushed and wide-eyed sensation — Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas any more — is something we refer to, in my house, as a “TIC moment”. When we are slapped silly by the knowledge that we’re not in Canada anymore, we’ve learned to shrug (or smile, or swear) and say, “This Is China!”

Our latest TIC gem happened on Sunday morning. (They often do. Even though Canada is an increasingly secular society, we still have shreds of attachment to the idea of Sunday as a day of rest. Not here!) Our son was in bed, half awake at about ten minutes to seven, when he heard knocking at his second-storey window. Like a good Canadian boy, he dreamily thought, “Why is there a woodpecker at my window?” And then the guy outside pounded again, so Sam opened his drapes.

Outside was a man suspended on thick, natural-fibre ropes from our apartment roof. We see them every day, scaling the exterior walls of our building with wood ladders and hemp and muscle-power to do the never-ending patchwork of the exterior bricks and concrete. He gestured. Sam opened the window, and asked what the heck he wanted in good local vernacular. He needed water for his cement-mix. (TIC! When two men came last spring to do some interior repair and painting, they not only asked us for a water bottle they cut open to hold their paint, but for wet cloths and elbow grease to clean up after them. Drop-cloths? Silly reader!) So, like good Chinese apartment dwellers at seven a.m. on a Sunday, Sam and his mother ran to get glasses of water. But the window screens here aren’t easily removed. Spiderman tilted his mixing bucket, nodded. My wife emptied the glass toward the window screen, and apparently some of it went into the mix. “Xie xie,” the wall-crawling repairman said.

Sam was later thanked for a second emptying of a water-glass out through the screen, and for a cloth that our new best friend needed to wipe off the concrete splashes on the window. Sam ran down and threw that one up to him. TIC. They’re out there again today, using a hand-drill and a long extension cord to chip away at decaying concrete. (Another TIC indicator: this apartment complex where we live, no doubt built at a feverish pace, as everything else is here, is no more than a dozen years old.*) The next thing you know, we’ll be asked to pay for repairs to the defective kitchen stove! Oh, wait, that’s right. We just were.

* Fact check: it opened in 2003. Wow.

“Dalian, Dalian, Dalian-ward…!”: A Family Newsletter

The excitement is hitting me this morning, as it periodically does. A 4:30 a.m. bathroom stumble turned into an hour of restlessness, thinking of all that is changing in our lives and all of you that are steady in our thoughts. The insects are buzzing, the birds sing (as do the fishing boats and motorbikes), and the sun is preparing to turn a warm and humid night into a blazing sweatbox day in Macau. I’m sitting by the pool in our hotel on the isle of Coloane in this former Portuguese colony that is now one of the Special Administrative Regions of China. CHINA. There isn’t a lot of lounging time, so by the time I finish writing this newsletter, I expect that we will be in Dalian, a small village of about four million in northeastern China. (CHINA!)

I’ll try to be brief. (I will fail. Skim as you wish.)

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Changing Minds and Addresses

Well, loyal lurkers – and you, over there, stumbling upon this site, wondering where the cool graphics and flashing doodads are – thanks for dropping by (again). Look. I’ve been unfaithful. (There it is.) I haven’t “always been there for you”, wherever “there” is. Mea culpa. I cringe when I note the last date of entry into HowdenTown and, as you can imagine, the public outcry has been furious.

But life changes are sometimes needed, always good for a scribbler, and I surely have bountiful fuel for the writing bus if I can only remember where I left the keys! Here’s the thing: I’m now on a continent where I’ve never been, learning a language I hadn’t imagined needing, obliging myself to draw on spiritual capital I’ve blandly believed was available, and buzzing with anticipation. My bride and I, and our wide-eyed nine-year-old son, have packed up our cozy Canadian townhouse and our cozy professional kits to learn more of what world citizenship involves.

We’re learning. June and July were blurs: wrapping up school and work, dispensing with as many of the trappings of familiarity as we could bear, and seeing what we could find to know and to love in a new way. And here we are in China. CHINA! There will be details.

Crazy Frenchman on the Road: Catching Up With BHL

In my frequently relenting quest to get caught up on the pile of Atlantic magazines  that looms accusingly over my desk, I went back to May 2005 because it began a series by the French writer and philosopher Bernard-Henri Lévy. The cover story last May was “In the Footsteps of Tocqueville”, a wonderfully affecting and effective look at America a century and a half after Alexis de Tocqueville, another son of France, wrote the famous Democracy in America. (I wrote about this here.) This, of course, was long before the United States had caught the imagination (and inspired the resentment) of much of the rest of the world.  Well, good news, friends! I’m now up to June 2005, whose cover carries the provocative title “How We Would Fight China” and which includes articles like “Managing China’s Rise” (Holy hubris, Batman!) and “The Next Cold War” (more erudite apocalyptica from the gloom-meister, Robert Kaplan).

But the best and most telling writing in the issue belongs to BHL (Lévy’s superstar nom de célébrité in Europe; it sounds quite zippy when the letters are pronounced as in French) and his “Road Trip, Part II”. His favourite American city? Seattle mon amour. “If I had to choose an American city to live in – if I had to pick a place, and only one, where I had the feeling in America of discovering my lost bearings – it would be here, in Seattle.” The Space Needle, the docks, the Sound, the intellectual ferment – he loves it all.

From Seattle, BHL goes on to the queerly conservative, even geriatric ambience of “Gayland”, the heart of the homosexual district of San Francisco. He also has an unusual and characteristically thoughtful take on “one of the most significant and innovative American political movements in recent times”, MoveOn.org. (If this is unfamiliar to you, think Clinton, Lewinsky, and the hungry Republican effort to impeach the Prez.) While in California, of course, Lévy is obligated to meditate (in the spirit of Tocqueville’s investigation of American prisons) on the myth and the meaning of Alcatraz, the long-closed island penitentiary from which none, famously, could escape. His conclusion on the latter obsession: maybe America’s prisons aren’t even really about the usual debate between “rehabilitation or rectification” but more about banishment, exclusion from the “sacred circle” of power. In California, he also ponders the “anti-city” of Los Angeles and the “bombastic kitsch” of San Simeon, the Hearst mansion that inspired Orson Welles’s depiction of “Xanadu” in the immortal film Citizen Kane. It also inspired in BHL the “irrepressible and contradictory wishes to laugh, to vomit, and yet at times to applaud”. (This last may be a microcosm of Lévy’s response to his entire American odyssey, but it’s too soon to say.) He investigates America’s suddenly legendary obesity, and draws some interesting and contrary conclusions regarding Europe’s exaggeration of it but also of its necessity. He wanders along the California/Mexico border, tries to explain the uneasy paradox between the States’ desire to exclude migrants and the undoubted economic need for them, and concludes that “I don’t like any of these explanations….[But] in America, newcomers take nothing for granted. For them, America is a place that must be earned.”

What I offer here, as you can probably tell, are the tiniest snippets from an involved, digressive but coherent 11-page article, pages of text with only tiny flourishes of illustration. (Don’t mean to discourage anyone, but the Atlantic is a magazine for people who read, which is not as redundant a statement as I wish it was.) One of these days, Bernard-Henri Lévy’s series will become a book, and you’ll no doubt thank me for this prescient and forward-looking advance review, even as you now snicker at how far behind I am in my reading.